Big Mani opens, BoCo is back
And the evolution of Darwins
Feels like a bank holiday weekend, even though technically it isn’t… Still, I hope you get to knock off early and have some nice Irish food and drinks lined up to celebrate Lá Fhéile Pádraig. I’m currently battling some sort of sinus-y head cold, so I’m planning plenty of downtime this weekend while brushing up on research for a very fun radio segment next week. It’s not exactly food or drink-related, but I am a self-proclaimed expert in the food and drink of this subject… let’s just say I’ll be bringing receipts, proof, timelines, and screenshots! IYKYK. Anyway, hope you enjoy your weekly dose of stuff that has been filling my inbox, WhatsApps & real-life chats. Slán 💚
Fresh ingredients:
News & stuff I’m excited about
Mani Pizza has moved…across the road. They opened at 35 Drury Street to big queues this week. I had a quick peek inside to admire the gorgeous interiors and indoor seats, yay! Pizza looks as delicious as ever, will be trying asap.
Boco Pizza, a favourite spot on Bolton Street, are finally opening the long-awaited Clontarf outpost today on Vernon Avenue. After they left their pop-up stint beside Harry Byrne’s, I’ve been impatiently waiting for this one. The new place looks fab, and I can’t wait to get in for a pie.
Darwins on Aungier Street is relaunching next week as Darwins Tavern. They’ve switched out an all rounder menu offering “contemporary international cuisine”, to focus more on their steakhouse and butchery roots, “celebrating a collaboration between chef & butcher”. Looks interesting, let’s hope that it is. Bookings here.
Daddy’s Cafe in Rialto is also having a bit of a glow up. Full details still TBC, but I do know it will no longer be called Daddy’s, and there are some delicious plans that will be coming very soon.
There’s a new Venezuelan spot opening in Temple Bar called Cantina Latina.
Some nice bakery pop-ups happening in Dublin - Wexford based Broné will be at Brew Lab this Saturday, 14th. Next Saturday, 21st Rock Bakery will be at Harry’s in Malahide.
Katy McGuinness gives Allta a rare 10/10 score in this week’s Irish Indo review.
There seems to be no stopping the lads from Fierce Mild, their latest PR hosting a booze free pub crawl for a New York Times feature!
Food magazines Vittles, Pit and FatBoy Zine are putting on the first ever Food in Print Magazine Fair this April in London. What a dreamy day that would be.
Where to go for a Ramadan Iftar feast via All The Food.
The restaurant news this week has been the discourse around Noma and René Redzepi after the New York Times published a damning piece detailing abuse allegations, including details of René Redzepi punching a chef in the stomach; read it via the Irish Times here. It’s resulted in major sponsors pulling out of Noma’s residency in Los Angeles. Redzepi has since resigned from his role in Noma and from the board of MAD, announcing it to the world via Instagram by sharing a video of him resigning to his team. It’s so weirdly meta and performative. The close-ups of the teary team, but then the shaky camera to make it feel spontaneous or something. Serious ick. There has been so much said and written about Noma, lots of emotion, some valid backtracking and some interesting takes. Here are a few I’ve thought were worth a read/watch.
Katia Valadeau - On Seasoning, Abuse, Gordon Ramsay and Double Standards**
Billy Wagner Nobelhart & Schmutzig
**Since I pressed publish, the Substack piece I referenced here has been removed because of a legal letter the writer received. Unfortunately, freelance writers don’t have the budget for legal battles, etc. A real pity, as it was a sharp, considered take on the Noma story and ripple effects in the Irish restaurant scene. And ironic as one of the lines was “I’m often asked about why the press doesn’t write more openly about this subject”….
Dates for the Diary:
Tasty things to book ahead
“London’s cult dining sensation”, Whyte’s Restaurant are back at Row Wines for a Japanese-inspired pop-up “The Rotten Octopus” on March 22nd. Bookings here.
Bisou Bisou x The Glasshouse: Award-winning Montréal bartender Gregory Buda brings world-class cocktails to Cork for a one-night takeover at The Montenotte on Friday, 20th March. Walk-in only, see more here.
Chef Beth O’Brien from The Fat Badger in London has devised a special St. Patrick’s Day menu for the Market Restaurant at The Guinness Storehouse running until March 18th that includes this scone bagel hybrid which should 100% be a thing.
The Waterford Festival of Food, happening 23rd - 26th April, announced their lineup, including a series of one-night-only chef collaborations. At the House of Waterford, the home of Waterford Crystal, the culinary team from Ashford Castle will collaborate with chef Eric Matthews. Chef Paul Flynn will welcome the team from Uno Mas to The Tannery for a rare and highly anticipated takeover. Sham Hanifa will be cooking at Cass & Co, and Café Paradiso is doing a pop-up at the Tannery Cookery School. There’s loads more happening, check out the full lineup here www.waterfordfestivaloffood.com
Petit Fours:
Sweet bits to watch, listen, read or obsess over, etc.
For the week that’s in it, a brilliant list of Irish drinks and ingredients from Shamim de Brun in the Irish Times.
And if you’re looking for some classic Irish recipes, check out this St. Patrick’s Day post from Leanne at The Lemon Thymes.
I was a guest on the podcast Rails, Ales & Old Towns, where I talked about pubs & pints and a bit on St. Patrick’s Day. Take a listen here 🎧https://railsalesoldtowns.com/ep36/
It’s been twenty years since Jamie’s School Dinners first appeared on our screens and local resident turned writer Heather Parry takes a sobering look back at how it all unfolded via Vittles - Bad People, Bad Food, Bad Place.
This is the correct amount of butter for a hot cross bun.
Speaking of butter, how cute is this new book on butter?
JW Anderson x Guinness - want it all.
A schnapps hike in Germany - yes, you drink schnapps along the way!
Do you agree with Larry David’s “appetizer allotment”
Is a roast dinner spice bag a step too far?
This is all I want for Easter tbh
